Sigil Complete (Maybe)

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This weekend I got a chance to work on Sigil's collar. I wanted a collar with points with some cable detail that worked with the chain design on the borders. Instead of knitting a separate band (which I couldn't figure out how to neatly connect to the sweater), I picked up stitches around the neckline and knit onto the sweater. Instead of the linked ring motif, I chose to place 5 individual links at even intervals around the collar on a background of reverse stockinette. And the bottom edge of both collar points is a two stitch border of regular stockinette.

20050227_SigilFrontView1.jpg
Sigil, The Artsy Magazine Shot

With a nice wool sweater on, it was actually warm enough to go and take some pictures outdoors on our balcony. The natural light meant that John was really able to capture the cable details well. Unfortunately, my hair kept getting in the way of making it clear how the collar really looked.

20050227_SigilFrontView2.jpg
Sigil At Ease with More Collar Visibility

Because Sigil is really a jacket rather than a true cardigan sweater, she doesn't have the same kind of give and drape. I like that the targhee wool really holds onto a nice structured look, even though it's knit at a final gauge of 3 stitches/inch. It was a good choice for this jacket that I wanted to hang relatively straight down from the shoulders.

20050227_SigilSideView.jpg
Sigil, A View from the Side

This picture is meant to show off the set-in sleeve as well as show a bit more about how the jacket falls. I'm glad that I fought through the set-in sleeve shaping calculations, because it really gives this bulky jacket just a little bit more sophisticated look and gives it the option of being work-wear as well as a relaxed weekend jacket.

20050227_SigilBackView.jpg
Sigil, Back with Collar Detail

No finished sweater photo shoot would be complete without a view of the back. One of the things that invariably makes me crazy about the knitting magazines and their photography is that I almost never get to see how the back looks. Sigil has no side shaping, so she looks pretty much the same in front and in back, from that perspective. I think the bottom panel with the cable detail gives the back some oomph without being over-the-top.

The only thing I am wrestling with now: is Sigil really finished?

My first finishing question: Did I find the right collar for the jacket? Are the points too big? Are the motifs the right motifs? Are they spread too far apart? At first I was pretty ambivalent about the collar, but now that I've seen it photographed, I find myself liking it more and more. If I keep it as it is, it will need to be lightly tacked down, to keep the points sitting where I want them to.

The other finishing question: Should Sigil get a zipper or be left without any formal closure? At first I wanted one, then I wanted to go with a clasp, but now as I look at it, I think that, if it gets a closure, a zipper would best preserve the structure I want to have and create the neckline I want to see with regards to the current collar.

So, even though Sigil is completely wearable, I'm still stewing about these things. I think the answers to my questions will likely only come with a few wearings. So wear her I will before I make any final decisions. My impulse to tweak is quite strong, but I know it's possible to tweak things over the top, and Sigil is emphatically not meant to be an over the top jacket.

So what did I learn?

  • Soak and block my swatches. If I hadn't I would have gotten a big and unpleasant surprise the first time this jacket got a bath. I let the swatches I did block by hanging so as to ensure that my pinning procedures weren't influencing the outcome.
  • Existing garments are handy reference points for creating new ones. Sigil's shaping and sizing are taken directly from a little jacket I bought from J. Jill. that I love and wear all the time.
  • Keep cable motifs simple with big yarn. The Targhee wasn't a problem at all to cable with, but big yarn makes for big cables and I didn't want a huge cable motif to swallow me up. I think too much cabling would have been too much for me and the yarn.
  • Pick a garment style that works with the structure/texture of the yarn and my figure. A boxy jacket that wants a slightly stiff fabric to help maintain its shape is a good match for the targhee and it works with my figure. A tailored jacket fitted to my curves in the targhee would likely have made me look a bit more -er- robust than I am, given the thickness of the knitted fabric. I think this design is good for me and the targhee.
  • Set in sleeves aren't as hard to design as I thought. However, they do take time to think through, and it helps to have few good books to refer to along the way.
  • Designing my own sweater was a lot of fun and it feels very rewarding now that I am finished. It also was no where near as difficult as I had worked it out in my head to be. I think that the next sweater I do for John will likely be one I make up on my own so that I can build a sweater that fits his form better than some of the previous sweaters I have made for him.

Want to see the current instructions for the collar? Just click the extended entry link.

Finishing and Collar

Weave in ends in left and right fronts and back. Join fronts to back at shoulders. With right side of right front facing, pick up 6 stitches across the first bound off edge, pick up 3 stitches across the second bound off edge and pick up 8 stitches along the side of the neck. Pick up 22 stitches across the back of the neck. Pick up 8 stitches along the left-front side of the neck, 3 stitches across the next bound off edge and 6 stitches across the final bound off neck edge on the left front. 56 stitches total have been picked up.

R1 (RS): K2, P52, K2
R2 (WS): P2, K52, P2
R3 (RS): K2, P52, K2
R4 (WS): P2, K1, M1, K50, M1, K1, P2 (58 stitches total)
R5 (RS): K2, P3, (base row of motif bottom, P2,)* *repeat 4 more times, P1, K2 (68 stitches total).
R6 (WS): P2, K1, M1, K2. Knit to last 3 stitches, maintaining cable motif as set. M1, K1, P2. (70 Stitches total)
R7: (RS): K2, P4, Knit 5 cable motifs with spacing as set in R5, P2, K2 (80 stitches total)
R8: (WS): As R6. (82 stitches total).
R9: (RS): K2, P5, Knit 5 cable motifs with spacing as set in R5, P3, K2
R10: (WS): As R6 (84 stitches total).
R11: (RS), K2, P6, Knit 5 cable motifs with spacing as set in R5, starting motif cap, P4, K2.
R12: (WS): As R6 (86 stitches total).
R13: (RS): K2, P7, Knit 5 cable motifs with spacing as set in R5, P5, K2
R14: (WS): As R6 (88 stitches total).
R15: (RS): K2, P8, Knit 5 cable motifs with spacing as set in R5, P6, K2 (78 stitches total)
R16: (WS): As R6 (70 stitches total)
R17: (RS): K2, P66, K2
R18: (WS): BO Purlwise across entire row.

Block collar to shape.

26 Comments

Kristel said:

I think she's wonderful, and fits you very well! If you want to be able to close the sweater, I vote for a zipper. Anything else would be getting in the way of the front cables.

Not bad for a first design. ;) When will we be seeing more? :D

Tracy said:

Well done, it really suits you, as it should seeing as you are the star of the show, clever girl!

Elisabeth said:

I really love that jacket!! It looks really great on you :) Lovely desing!

Elisabeth

Emma said:

The collar works really well.It has enough substance to avoid looking flimsy against the solidity of the chain cable.
I really don't think a zipper will work.It would take away from the semi-formal look - Sigil would be great for work.I think she looks good without any closure at all.Depends how you feel when you test wear her.
A fantastic bit of design work.The sleeves are great.
Fab !

Dani said:

It looks great! I love the way that you did the collar, it really draws your attention to the chain motif in the rest of the sweater. I think if it were me I would put a zipper on it. I think it would make it more pratical when it is a little nippy outside

Molly said:

Looks great! This is a fabulous design. I would use a zipper if you are looking for a closure of some sort; I think it would be the least obtrusive choice, and your gauge seems thick enough to handle the weight of a zipper.

Enjoy your new sweater jacket!

Pubah said:

Ziiiippppppperrrrr!

claudia said:

Being who you are, I know you'll consider the practical angle. To be a jacket for cool spring days or whenever you're not wearing a coat, your boobs and middle will freeze without a closure.

So, not only do you make something up, but you make up a pattern too. Got me beat on that one, baby.

Crystal said:

*WOW*. I *never* post, but really, I've got to comment on what a *lovely* sweater this is.

The points are perfect and not too big, and I vote for a zipper, for all the reasons you listed.

In awe!

Sockbug said:

It looks marvelous! I vote no closure. A zipper would be my choice, but you're right, it would look more like a fancy sweatshirt then.

Very lovely. Put in a zipper. I love zippers. Up with zippers everywhere. All zippers, all the time. Zip it.

Steph said:

Beautiful work Theresa! I would say yes to the zipper because you'll wear it more. And I think the collar is perfect.

And thanks for all the great notes on the design because I could see myself making one someday.

Kate said:

I vote for Zipper and I think the sweater is gorgeous... I know you made the pattern, but is there somewhere *we* (royal *we* of knitters) can get a copy... i have a friend that would LOVE this! :)
Kate

Melanie said:

I've been following your Sigil progress, and I'm very impressed with the jacket! I think it will look great with a zipper. Congrats!

Sara said:

It's beautiful! I'd be tempted to put on a zipper, so it would be a more flexible garment to wear.

Moni said:

Stunning! I like it w/o zipper just fine. But sara has a point, maybe it would be more flexible with a zipper.

RK said:

Sigil looks spectacular! I vote for no zipper. The lines are clean and elegant right now, and she looks like she can hold her own without being zipped up. I really love how she looks on you in the pictures, and I think that zippers or clasps or anything else added to the front would detract from the final product.

Jane said:

Sigil is a beautiful sweater. You did a great job and it looks great on you. I vote for a zipper, though. If it was me, I'd want to close it up once in a while.

Great collar. Leave it.

Alix said:

I think she looks great, but I agree with your 'not sure if you're finished sentiments'. I like the shape of the collar, but I can't see enough of the detail work to know whether or not it's great.

And the 'closures vs. no closures' debates is also a good one. I was thinking looking at it that it might look cool with 1-3 tarnished silver knotwork clasps of some sort, or maybe the cheongsam-style frogs.

Steph said:

Beautiful - well done! It looks fab on you. I would add a zip if it were mine as I like to be cozy.

lynette said:

Sigil is wonderful! You did an amazing job on it. As usual, I'm impressed.

Gwen said:

Sigil is terrific! I am totally impressed. Sigil has been a wonderful project to watch. Thanks for sharing.

alison said:

Beautiful, beautiful. Very classy and elegant. Great job!

Norma said:

I love it! And yes, a zipper. It's the perfect jacket, just perfect.

Eva Shiu said:

The jacket is very beautiful on you ! i like this kind of design. I think It can wear both for work and casual. I always want to knit myself something similar. Good work !

Emy said:

Love the cables! This is a fantastic design as cables are right up my fave alley.

I would play devil and say hidden snap buttons please! Exposed zipper will be no-no.

About this Entry

This page contains a single entry by Theresa published on February 28, 2005 12:05 AM.

Sigil and Set-In Sleeves was the previous entry in this blog.

Spinning is the next entry in this blog.

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