Sigil's First Sleeve

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Sigil is still moving along. I got the cuff finished and blocked Monday night and I finished up the sleeve and sleeve cap tonight. Once again, blocking helped to induce a remarkable transformation in the shape and size of the sleeve.

20050209_SigilSleeveBefore.jpg
Sigil Sleeve Before Blocking
20050209_SigilSleeveAfter.jpg
Sigil Sleeve After Blocking

Before blocking (sorry, no measurements this time, it's late) the sleeve was of Butterfly-esque proportions. After, it's just perfect -- or at least it's what I planned for. To see how I did with the sleeve cap shaping, I did a little reality check and measured the length of the armhole edge (including the armhole cast off) and the edge of the sleeve cap from the first bind off to the center of the final bind off around the outside curve. About 10.5" for the armhole, about 11" for the sleeve cap, but I think that extra 1/2 inch will not be a problem given that the corners at the top of the sleeve cap will get tucked in a bit at the seam. I'm always pleased when my little reality checks actually work out. So now I've got clearance to move onto the second sleeve.

Here's the instructions that I am working from for the sleeve:

Bottom Band

CO 12 stitches
R1: P2, K8, P2
R2: K2, P8, K2
R3: P2, K8, P2

Maintaining 2 stitch stockinette edges on each side of main pattern, knit the 6 rows that compose the link base (see Elsebeth Lavold’s Viking Patterns for Knitting, p. 13), follow with 4 repeats of the central link pattern (see Viking Patterns for Knitting, p. 14) and complete the motif with the link cap (Viking Patterns for Knitting, p. 13).

Repeat the first 2 rows above that comprise the foundation rows. Bind off as set. There should be 50 rows, including the bind off row.

Wet block to deal with yarn changes before continuing.

Sleeve Body

Pick up 30 stitches evenly across the bottom band when rotated horizontally. To do this, pick up 2 stitches, skip 1, pick up 1 stitch and skip 1, then repeat 9 more times until 30 stitches are set. Be sure that there is one stitch picked up at the first and last stitch of the band.

Knit 5 rows in stockinette, ending with a wrong side row. Increase 1 stitch on each side of the sleeve on the next and every following 6th row until there are 48 stitches across. Knit 15 rows even, ending on a wrong side row.

Cap Shaping

BO 3 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows (42 stitches remain). Decrease 1 stitch at each side of the next and 2 following alternate rows (36 stitches remain). (Use paired decreases as described above for armhole shaping).

Decrease on each side, every three rows, 6 times (24 stitches remain). Purl 1 row. Decrease 1 stitch each side on the following right side row (22 stitches remain). Purl 1 row.

BO 3 stitches at the beginning of the next following 4 rows. BO remaining 10 stitches.

Wet block entire piece to measurements.

6 Comments

Deb said:

Sigil is looking great!

What do you use as a blocking board? The grid looks sooo practical, and I'm jealous!

claudia said:

What are you, speed knitter? That is going really fast.

Theresa said:

Big needles, big wool = fast sweater. This thing is on US 11's and I'm getting 3 stitches/inch after blocking. The funny thing is that this wool doesn't look like big wool when you just have it sitting in front of you. It looks aran weight. But it's got a sneaky personality...

Sue said:

The sweater is flying along! Looks great!

stephanie said:

Theresa, what about going ahead and sewing in the sleeve to see if it's perfect? might save you reshaping two sleeve caps if it's not quite right.

Deb, I don't know if Theresa uses the same as I did, but blocking fabric is made by Golden Hands in Atlanta, GA. you can get it directly from them or from allbrands.com. allbrands had the better price when I purchased mine. They also make a pad to go underneath. I used cotton batting instead and homosote (siding material from a home center) for the board. you can pin into homosote and it takes water well.

Ingrid said:

Actually, you do want about an extra half inch on the sleeve cap, relative to the arm hole. At least you do when you're sewing. You gather the top half of the sleeve cap very, very slightly, so it forms a nice rounded curve over your shoulder.
If the armhole is dropped, you'll get a stupid lump on your upper arm, of course, but the sleeve head is (or should be) much flatter on dropped sleeves.

About this Entry

This page contains a single entry by Theresa published on February 10, 2005 12:30 AM.

Muppet Scarf Redux was the previous entry in this blog.

Red Lang Scarf is the next entry in this blog.

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