I spent most of Saturday afternoon working on writing up the pattern for my "Wiskers and Paw Prints" Socks. Generally speaking, I like to work up one sock, write out the pattern, and then follow the pattern for the second sock so that I can revise the instructions by reading through them and using them. Little by little I am developing a rhythm for putting patterns together in a way that is both aesthetically pleasing and organizationally useful, so the process takes less time than it used to for me, but it still takes a reasonable amount of concentrated effort to make sure the text makes sense and that the charts are legible, sensible and mistake-free.

The process of writing up the pattern also helps me identify what special techniques are used in the pattern that might need more explanation than makes sense for a short sock pattern. For instance, how do you execute a provisional crochet cast-on in the round for a sock? Does everyone understand the general instructions for making a picot edge on a sock top? What about doing wraps for a short-row heel?

With that in mind, I decided that I would do something I haven't done in a while and add to my "Techknit" section. Today I will have a discussion of how to do a provisional crochet cast-on in the round. This is the way I start my picot edged socks. Tomorrow I'll complete the with information about how to go from the cast-on to the picot edge.

To start with, when you do a provisional crochet cast on you need to have a knitting needle (for socks it's best if this is a double pointed needle) and a crochet hook of similar diameters. You also will need a yard or two of waste yarn that is a contrasting color to the yarn you are going to use for the main body of your sock. For a picot edge start, I usually use a double pointed needle about 2 sizes smaller than the one that the main body of the sock will be knit on.

Step 1: Getting Started

The first step is to create a slip knot and put it over your crochet hook. This slip knot should be close to the end of your waste yarn. This is the same thing you would do if you were going to start a crochet chain. Then you want to get your double pointed needle ready.

Step 2: Creating the First Cast On Loop

The second step is to take the end of the waste yarn connected to the yarn source and put it underneath the double pointed needle. Then, you put the crochet hook over the top of the needle and grab the working yarn and pull it through the loop on the crochet hook. The first stitch can be a little fiddly, but otherwise, it's not too hard to get started.

Step 3: Pull the First Stitch Through and Start the Next Stitch

This image shows one stitch cast on, with the needle and hook set up to create the second cast on stitch. You repeat this process until you have as many stitches on the needle as you need to have for your cast on edge.

Step 4: Complete Cast On and Secure Cast On Tail

Once you have cast on all the stitches you need, chain several stitches through the working loop on the crochet hook without wrapping the yarn around the knitting needle, cut the yarn and pull the tail through the final loop just as you would if you were ending a crochet chain. Don't pull the end too tightly, because you will be using that end to undo the provisional cast on later on.

Step 5: Knitting on the Main Yarn

It really doesn't matter what side you start knitting your main color on with, but I usually start with the edge that has the crochet chain tail to help me keep myself oriented. Pick up your main color yarn and start knitting across.

Step 6: Complete the First Row in the Main Yarn

I think it's easiest to knit across the entire row of provisionally cast on stitches before joining things in the round. This is the way things look for me before I set up knitting in the round.

Step 7: Setup for Knitting in the Round, Divide the Stitches in Half Across 2 Needles

The next thing I do is transfer half of the cast stitches to a second double pointed needle and then "fold" the line of stitches so that the ends are adjacent to each other, as shown in this picture. The needle in the back should be the one which has the yarn connected to the yarn source, while the needle in the front is the one that has the free tail of the main yarn color.

Step 8: Using Working Yarn, Knit First Quarter of the Stitches onto a Third Needle

To get things started, make sure that you have not twisted any stitches where they bend to extend across the second needle. Twisted stitches = mobius sock, which is not an easy to wear article of clothing. Pick up a third double pointed needle and start knitting in the first stitch of the front needle with the working yarn. Knit the first half of the stitches on the first needle. Be sure to pull the first couple of stitches tightly so as to prevent a gap between the first and last stitches.

Step 9: Knitting Up the Second Quarter of the Stitches

Now pick up a fourth double pointed needle and knit across the second half of the stitches on the first needle. You'll end up with three needles with stitches on them and two free needles (from a package of 5).

Step 10: Knitting Up the Third Quarter of the Stitches

Pick up one of your remaining free needles and knit across the first half of the stitches on the second needle. You'll end up with 4 needles with stitches on them, and you'll finally have something that looks like you're used to if you knit in the round with 5 double points.

Step 11: Knitting up the Final Quarter of the Cast On Stitches

It's a cake walk from here. Now just pick up that last free needle and knit across the last section of stitches from the needle in the back. When you complete this you'll have freed up another needle and you'll be ready to start knitting in the round for what ever pattern you want to get started with.

I just love using this general method to set up knitting in the round for socks. If you're knitting socks on two circs or on magic loop, you don't need to do anything but do the part that involves dividing the stitches in half. If you prefer to work in the round on 4 needles instead of 5, just knit a third of the stitches on to each needle you add in. I've found this method really helps keep me out of trouble with regards to twisting the cast on.

Tomorrow: How to turn this into a picot edge.